By Julia Sinikova

Nestled in northern Phuket, Baan Ar-Jor is perhaps the most architecturally impeccable time machine one could imagine. This 88-year-old Sino-Portuguese mansion effortlessly transports visitors to an era before emails and fax machines – a time when Phuketians were mining tin and planting rubber trees.

Built in 1936 by a prominent landlord, the mansion lay abandoned for nearly four decades until the fourth generation of the family lovingly revived it as a tribute to their grandfather. It was one of the grandsons, Satja Hongyok, who graciously guided me through the house, sharing its rich history.

The mansion’s original architecture and furnishings provide a rare opportunity to experience the lifestyle, culture, and culinary traditions of the descendants of Hokkien Chinese immigrants, known locally as the Peranakan.

“Peranakan is a Malay word. We call ourselves Baba-Nyonya,” my host corrected me.

Accompanied by Satja Hongyok, I wandered through the house, explored the grandparents’ bridal room on the second floor, admired the stunning murals in the lobby, and marveled at the natural warmth of the old wooden furniture.

As an interior designer, I was captivated by the harmonious blend of Chinese, Western, and Siamese influences that define the space.

Baan Ar-Jor also features two exceptional restaurants – Toh Daeng and Wo Ai Ni. Both serve traditional Thai and Phuketian dishes, with ingredients sourced fresh from surrounding farmlands and local fishermen.

Dining at Toh Daeng is a journey into the mansion’s history, as the restaurant occupies the original dining room and features a striking red table (hence the name) running the length of the space.

This culinary gem earned a Bib Gourmand recognition from the Michelin Guide in 2022 and has proudly retained the award since.

Beyond its role as a museum of Baba-Nyonya culture and gastronomy, Baan Ar-Jor is home to the Baan Ar-Jor Foundation, which supports underprivileged children. Visitors can contribute to these efforts by purchasing meaningful souvenirs crafted by local women and elderly.

Open daily from 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM, Baan Ar-Jor invites guests to immerse themselves in the ambiance of the old Phuket. For an exclusive experience, one room is available for homestay.

To learn more, visit baanarjor.com or instagram.com/baanarjor for more.